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Dracaena Draco Dragon Tree

12 September 2009 76 Comments

Dracena Draco, commonly called the Dragon Tree is a slow growing beautiful specimum plant. They flower after seven to fifteen years and branch after that. Mine flowered after fifteen years, due to partially falling over and growing horizontally for a few years.

dracaena-draco-dragon-tree

dracaena-draco-dragon-tree-floweringHere’s my Dracaena flowering, five years ago. Draco’s grow into large multi branched tree shape after 25-30 years.

Legend has it that virgin were sacrificed under them or women bled on them or something like that, you better double check as I can’t remember the details.

The roots and ringed truck are both features as is the wonderful form of this drought tolerant plant which requires no fertilizing or water once established.

76 Comments »

  • Carol said:

    Mine has also just flowered – the flowers are gone and all that is left is the large stem and hard green berries. Should I cut it out now and what is going to happen to my beautiful plant. Cheers Carol

  • admin (author) said:

    Hi Carol
    Lucky you.
    The berries will take almost a year to ripen to orange/red. If you don’t want to collect the seeds then the best thing to do is cut the flower stalk as close to the base as possible. This will stop your Draco putting all it’s energy into the seeds and get it to start on it’s exciting new chapter in it’s life.
    Draco’s branch from where the flower was, once the flower is done. So over the next year you’ll notice new growth at the top and 6-10 new growing tips appearing at the top. These grow into new branches.

    If you do want the seeds then you can let them ripen on the Draco or wait another four months or so then cut of the whole flower stalk and leave that somewhere. The seeds will continue to ripen and be good to use.

  • Carol said:

    Thank you for your response.

    There are some berries that have already turned orange and they are shriverling up, dropping off and falling into the centre of the draco, some have fallen into the planta box.

    I am so excited. Does this mean I could grow more of my beautiful Draco.($350.00 – 2 years ago) I have never done anything like this before- Is there a book or something to learn what to do?? Is this called propergating?? I’m hyperventilating with excitment – sorry.

    There is also a lot of old flowers and leaves etc sitting in the top of the draco What should I do should I clean it all out so it doen’t rot.(I don’t know how I would get them out)

  • admin (author) said:

    “It is said that a particular flightless bird is part of the reproduction process; only seeds that can pass through the gut of this bird can germinate. “http://fog.ccsf.cc.ca.us/btraut/documents/PlantInformationSheetbyAnneThompson.pdf
    That is a myth, as I have grown lots of new Draco’s from seed.
    1. Collect the seeds.
    2. Remove the flesh, orange stuff. Inside is a silvery seed.
    3. Now, spring, is the right time to sow the seed. I had the best success with the ones sown on top of well drained sandy/planting/compost mixture. i.e. don’t cover the seeds and don’t have too mossy mixture like lots of the seed raising mixtures are.
    4. Keep moist, like you would for any seed, but do not continuously soak.

    Remember Draco’s are slow growing. I’m not sure how old your’s was when you bought it, but if it has flowered now it was probably at least 8 years old. If I get a chance

    I clean mine out, but don’t stress too much about it. In nature that debris sitting in the plant acts like a fertiliser. Water soaks through it and takes nutrients down to the plant.

    Good luck
    Dean

  • Carol said:

    Thanks so much Dean – You have been very helpful Carol

  • Jane Chami said:

    Hi Dean,

    You sound like a bit of an expert on the Dragon Tree. I was lucky and able to pick up a mature tree approx 10ft tall with five sprouts. It was going to be demolished so it was a very hasty transpant. I am worried that it will not survive the transplant because I didn’t prepare the soil well or do much research into what is required.

    Do you have any tips that will help with the survival of this gorgeous tree.

    Thanks

    Jane

  • admin (author) said:

    Hi Jane I posted a reply here http://www.doyadigit.com/2009/12/transplanting-a-dracaena-draco-dragon-tree/
    Lucky you I hope you get it to survive. You should as they are very hardy plants. Just make sure you didn’t plant it too deep and if you did then life it up.

  • Iain Carlin said:

    Good article thanks.

    Do you know much about the roots on these plants? We have one planted about 2m from our house. The tree is now about 3m tall and growing well.

    Last summer it has started to lift the concrete path round the house. Are the roots invasive? Should I worry about them getting into the stormwater or foundations of the house?

    BTW, I make sure I cut the flowers from my tree as soon as they appear because the fruit rats love the berries. That wouldn’t be so bad except they take them inside the roof of the house to eat them!

    Cheers,

    Iain

  • admin (author) said:

    Hi Iain
    2m is too close to plant any tree near a house. While a Draco will grow slowly it will eventually be too big for that location.

    I am not sure how invasive the roots are, but would hazard a guess they’re less invasive that most plants, simply because they are slower growing. Most invasive roots belong to fast growing trees.

    If you’re particularly worried, but would prefer to leave the Draco where it is then dig a trench down near the house foundations and check for roots. If you see big roots and still want to leave the Draco where it is then extend you trench and put in some root stopping material.

    If you want to move it then wait until winter. First dig a trench around half of the plant, keeping in mind you have to move it somehow so you need to get reasonably close to trunk. Say about .5-1m

  • Tara said:

    Hi,
    I’ve just transplanted a draco, about 2m tall, and the people I got it from tell me it must be at least 10 years old, probably 15 years. Unfortunately the middle spike of leaves broke off and came out in the process of transplanting – they were very white. Is there anything you can suggest that I can do to make it survive? I’ve had other dracena-type plants do this and then the leaves have fallen away from the top and they have forked into branches with new sets of leaves. It’s not how I understand the draco forks but I’m wondering whether this could occur. Any help or suggestion you can give me would be hugely appreciated.

  • admin (author) said:

    Hi Tara
    As you probably know Draco’s normally branch after flowering; however, there may be hope for you plant. My best guess is it will branch once it has reestablished its roots. Make sure you support the plant well, from at least two different points and preferably three. Keep watering for the first six months. Good luck!
    At 2m it would definitely be at least ten years old and could easily be 15.

  • Chris said:

    Hi,

    I have 2 Draco’s approx 8 years old. The biggest one flowered about 6 months ago and I removed the stalk and berries after 2 months but it has gone very yellow. The second one is now in flower and also looking a bit yellow. What do I need to do, I would hate to loose them? Any help would be appreciated.

  • admin (author) said:

    Hi Chris
    Once a Draco flower’s the remaining leaves do dwindle and go a wee bit yellow, until the new growth comes. Give them some liquid sea weed or similar now and then every few weeks for the rest of summer. If you’re really worried them upload some photos somewhere and give me a link. Good luck. Did you keep the seeds from the berries? If not keep the next lot to see if you can grow some from seed.

  • Vicki said:

    Hi! I have two Dragon’s, approx 7-8 years old.. The middle spikes have suddenly fallen off on each of these plants. I am unsure if they have been damaged somehow or they are sick.. Help! I love my plants and am now worried that I may lose them… Vicki

  • admin (author) said:

    Hi Vicki
    My guess is they have been damaged somehow. Do you have kids? I ask as one of my spikes was broken off my kids playing with a football. I only realised about two months after when I found the broken spike and remembered getting the ball out of the plant for them. Though as it has happened to both of your Dracos it could be some other problem. Hopefully the plants will start branching now.
    Possums is another possibility.
    Besides feeding the plants some sea weed fertilizer, I’m not sure what you can do. Good luck and please let me know what happens. Dean

  • Sarah said:

    We have a dragon tree about 1.5 years old and the centre leaves fell over and are all yellow the centre of the plant is now all soft and looks like its rotting. Do you know what this could be from or if it can be saved?

  • admin (author) said:

    Hi Sarah
    The most likely cause is rooting around the base from planting to deep. Has it been re-potted or planted in the last 6-9 months? Have you mounded mulch or similar around the base? If it is rotting around the base then nothing can save it.

  • Toni said:

    Hi – I have two dragon trees which were planted in a garden bed a little over 12 months ago. Including the leaves, they would be a little under a metre in height. The soil probably wasn’t the best having some slate and clay deeper down the planting hole. The garden bed has a pebble/rock “Mulch” They have been happy there until the last month or so. Now the lower leaves are yellowing with some brown spots on the yellowing leaves. We have had some decent rain in the last few weeks and some pretty hot/humid days and I am confused as to whether they have too much water or some other problem. I have checked the bottom of the trunk for any sponginess, but the truck is still hard which I guess is a good sign. Given that they cost a small fortune and I love them, any suggestions what may help? I would be mortified if they died. I was thinking that a seaweed fertiliser may help? Toni, Brisbane

  • admin (author) said:

    Hi Tony
    Your plants sound fine to me. (I think I heard your sigh of relief from down here in Melbourne!)
    During summer the lower leaves do turn yellow, then brown and fall off, or can be gently pulled off. Avoid ripping the leaves off too harshly as that spoils the lovely bark.
    Some seaweed fertilizer wouldn’t go astray. I never seen a Draco underwatered, they are arid plants. In Brisbane they should never need to watered, but like most plants if they get very dry they would appreciate it.
    Let me know how it works out. If you’re really concerned email me some photos to dean at this website.

  • Toni said:

    Thanks very much for your prompt response! You are right about that sigh of relief. Now I can channel that anxious energy elsewhere, right after I fertilise. Thanks again, Toni

  • Joel said:

    I have just aquired a very large cutting of the Dracaena Draco, i was wondering if anyone has any advice on the best way to make sure the tree grows, it would be a shame for it to die.

  • Lauchieg said:

    i have many cutting of draco…..a mate cut his up a few years ago.. i have potted them…they are alive…but dont seem to be rooting??? will it root?
    thankyou

  • Sandra said:

    Hi,

    Help, I have a Dragon Tree which has produced its first flower. The flower began to dry up so I cut the flower off. It didnt produce the berries yet. Have I ruined the plant, will it branch now? Also, some of the branch of the flower still remains on the tree as I was unable to cut closer. Should I now try and cut it to the base or should I leave it. I have also noticed that some new leaves were growing from the base of the flower but they are now slowly falling off.

  • admin (author) said:

    Hi Sandra
    Just leave it alone now and it will branch from near the base of the flower stalk.

  • Tanya said:

    Greetings! Will a POTTED dracaena draco bloom? Mine is around 32 years old, five feet tall, with four trunks (at present, has been taller and/or bushier at times). It is a part-time houseplant due to the colder winters here in western North Carolina, USA. Remains inside from approximately mid October through mid April. I HAVE completely removed the foliage (cut the trunks, long story) three or four times over the years. Thought that perhaps this would encourage branching, not realizing that the plant branches after blooming. WILL a potted draco bloom? If so, have I discouraged it from doing so by pruning? Thanks! :)

    P.S. – Don’t worry, I rooted/potted the cuttings and distributed them to friends. The original plant has had several “babies” grow from the roots as well; these were also passed along so others may enjoy a dragon tree.

  • TimT said:

    Hi Dean:

    I picked up a curious “miniature” Draco yesterday from a nearby nursery that carries a little of everything. Owner says he grew it from seedling about 8-10 years ago. It’s lived in a 5 gal pot all this time.

    The main trunk is only about 14″ high and 2.5″ in diameter.

    There are 7 young heads on it with very thin 1/2″ wide leaves. I’m guessing it flowered last year?

    Have you seen one of these before? It’s a Draco in every sense, except just small. I’m thinking its growth was stunted from being confined to a small pot.

    Any idea how this tree will mature?

    Tim

  • admin (author) said:

    Hi Tanya, the short answer is I’m not sure. Potted plants similar to Dracos can flower if they are feed and watered to their desired requirements, so I guess it could flower if you feed and water it right. As mine are grown outside and I don’t fertilize my plants I can’t recommend anything from direct experience. However, other sources suggest balanced fertilizer, low in nitrogen. I’d recommend a cactus fertilizer. You could use either water soluble or slow release. The important point is to make sure it is low nitrogen, as that promotes leaf growth not flowering and strength. Good luck. How wonderful it must be to have known the plant for 32 years.

  • admin (author) said:

    Hi Tim
    I’ve never seen one like that before. However I grew a few score of Draco’s from seed about five years ago. The ones planted in good soil and sun are now healthy and about 1mt tall, while the ones in bad spots are scrawny and around 25cm. One of the plants developed three heads very early on, I’m not sure how that happened, but I’m experimenting with some new seedlings to try to figure it out. I’m guessing it was due to be confined and if kept in a pot will remain stunted. Planted out it should grow faster, but I’m only guessing. THere are other varieties of Dracos, but I’m not familiar with those.

  • Maarten said:

    Hi,

    We have a Dracaena draco in a greenhouse here in Helsinki, and it has reached the roof without branching. This is not surprising, because it has never flowered, but to prevent it from damaging the greenhouse roof, we would need to cut it down. I was wondering if we could safe the plant through layering, or would the tip just grow again if we pot it up?
    Does anyone know if the trunk will produce side shoots after we cut the top (and all the leaves) off, like some other Dracaena and Yucca will?

    Thanks for the tips!

    Maarten

  • admin (author) said:

    Hi Martin
    I’m not positive, but would guess the trunk will produce side shoots. You can root and grow the tip. I’ve heard conflicting reports on the best way to do this, but believe letting the cutting dry off and then replant in loose sandy mix is the best way to go. Water frequently, but don’t keep moist, i.e. let it dry out between watering, but water as soon as it is dry.
    Could luck.

  • Sharon said:

    Hi,
    I was wondering if you could give me some advice on some dragon trees we have. We have just moved into a new house that has several of these trees. However a couple of them are planted on the southern side of the house (so they don’t get much sun) and all the leaves are drooping. Is there anything we can do to try and make them go upright again? What are the chances of them surviving if we transplanted them to a more sunny part of the yard?
    Thanks,
    Sharon

  • Dustin McDaniel said:

    Hello,

    I am having the same problem… I have had my tree since a seedling and it is now six years old and the entire time I have had it the leave have been droopy. The color of the leave is fine but they don’t stand up like the other tree I have seen. I don’t really now how much to water it. most website say to keep the soil moist but when I do that the leave turn yellow as if I am over watering it. I need advice please help!

    Thanks,

    Dustin

  • admin (author) said:

    Hi Dustin
    Do not keep the soil moist. It is important to let the soil dry out completely between watering. I live in Melbourne and almost never water my plants, except when I transplant them or when they’re small seedling. If you live somewhere drier than Melbourne then only water sparingly.

    Perhaps there is some varieties where the leaves don’t stand up. When I first saw the photos of Sharon’s plants I thought they may be a type of Yucca rather than a Draco, but the glimpses of the trunk and roots made be pretty sure they were Dracos.

    As I said to Sharon, give them liquid seaweed or palm tree fertlizer. If the leaves don’t stand up then I wouldn’t worry. Just beware, that over-watering is much worse than under-watering.

  • Dustin McDaniel said:

    What are some sign I should look for when it is not getting enough water?

    Thanks,

    Dustin

  • Dave said:

    Hi Dean:

    Last weekend, I transplanted an 8 foot Dragon from a hillside on my house to my front yard. Against your good advise, I did it myself. Not smart.

    Anyway, I was at the nursery today and the gentleman there told me some info that has me sort of scared that my tree may not be completely healthy.

    I wanted to reach out to you to see if you would mind looking at some pictures of my tree to see if you believe he is healthy.

    Thanks in advance,
    Dave

  • marie said:

    Hi, I have pruned my dracaena and I would like to plant the off cuts, will they survive? what would I need to do. I need Help…..
    Marie

  • Melanie said:

    Hi Dean,

    Thank you so much for taking the time to answer questions about these wonderful trees!

    I have the same problem as a question above: We have a Dragon tree about 2m tall that we several months ago from a nursery. It is still in it’s original pot, waiting for the right time to be planted in our front yard. Recently the middle stalk broke off and was very white in the center. I know that you had mentioned possums and I was wondering what they may do to the trees. Also, you mentioned that it might grow a sport from the middle. Is there any special attention/care that I can give to it to make sure that it lives?

    Thanks!

    Melanie

  • Andrea said:

    Hi,

    I have two 70 plus year Old Dracaena Draco Plants that i am selling. I have somebody coming to look at it tomorrow and I am really not certain of its value. I would really appreciate any advise you could share.
    Cheers
    Andrea

  • admin (author) said:

    Hi Andrea
    Years are very vague when talking about plants. A descent description is much better. If they have been grown in half decent conditions then I guess they are 30ft high with four or more lots of branching, i.e. huge established plants. If that is the case then many thousands of dollars each. How many, well that depends on their size, condition and how much the person wants them, but $5-10,000 each is my best guess.
    Anyone else have an idea?

  • BJ68 said:

    We have 4 dragon trees.
    After reading some of the posts above I have gathered more info here than in any other previous Dragaon Tree searches. Including what to do, or not with my 2 flowering trees.
    One flowered and is less than a meter from the house. There is another on the other side of entrance (also less than a meter from house, it has not flowered as yet).
    There are also 2 in a front lawn garden with a large pandanus tree and 2 advanced yuccas. One of the dragon trees on front lawn has also flowered.
    The flower spikes have orange, green/orange seeds and are now drooping, as are the Dragon trees’ leaves.
    Should I cut the flower spikes off now & harvest seeds as ready?
    Do seeds need to shrivel before they are ready?
    Would succulent mix be appropriate to place seeds on?
    Will seeds cope with extreme heat (inside house on far end of kitchen is an east facing floor to ceiling curved glass wall & this is where I raise my other seedlings ie. “Desert Roses”

  • BJ68 said:

    PS. Do I leave the leaves alone when I cut flower spike off?
    Do I need to cut flower spike off?

  • Not Kim Gordon (author) said:

    Hi BJ86
    I’m glad you found my site of some benefit.
    Here is my reply about your flowers.
    http://www.doyadigit.com/2011/01/flowering-dragon-trees-dracaena-draco/

  • Narelle said:

    My dragon tree has started to drop the centre spears out of three of the heads. They look like they have rotted. There is a black soggy ring at the very base of the leaves that have caused it to just fall off in the middle. What have I done wrong. Aggghhh.
    Narelle

  • Not Kim Gordon (author) said:

    Narelle
    That sounds like it was too wet for too long and/or cockroaches or similar were living in that head. Is either of those possible?

  • Barb said:

    Our three dragon trees were recently inundated by the the flooding here in Brisbane – they ended up about 7metres under for approximately 3-4days.

    They were at least 7yrs old (I’m unsure how old they were when we bought them) and about 2m tall – single trunk still – not yet flowered or branched
    After the water receded, I washed out the river mud which was packed into the growth apex – but of course they all started rotting from the top – similar to Narelle’s experience. I have now cut the trunk back to a point where there was no sign of rot (losing ALL the foliage)

    I expect they will simply die – but on the off chance (and before I dig up the stems) has anyone had any luck with regrowth from such a major prune? (I know other draecenas would probably just sprout new stems either side of the cut)
    Many thanks for any advice you can offer

  • Narelle said:

    I wouldn’t have thought that it was too wet, but it certainly looks like rot now that I’ve done some more research. My tree is about 3 metres tall with 4 heads and they all look spongy half closer to the leaves. Since finding this my husband has dug down where we had a bubbler on it (which was only coming on twice a week) but it does seem quite wet there. Cocroaches are a possibility, but there’s certainly no infestation. Some sort of mushroom has been growing under the bushes that surround the base. Do I need to lop off all the heads!!! My goodness this is stressful!

  • Not Kim Gordon (author) said:

    Hi Barb
    Sorry to hear you’re one of the floods victims.
    I have only had some Draco’s suffer that rotting, after our wet winter and spring here in Melbourne, and had no luck in saving any of them.
    If they behave like a Yucca they would shoot more branches, but I simply don’t know. Good luck and please let us know.
    Make sure you give them a good feed of seaweed fertlizer.

  • Not Kim Gordon (author) said:

    Hi Narelle
    It sounds like you need to chop the heads off to me or the rot will keep going. I have never done that to a large Draco, so am not sure that it will re-sprout.
    Good luck

  • Barb said:

    Sigh…sadly it looks like all 3 dragon trees won’t make it.

    After cutting them back, the remaining stems have become progressively dehydrated & shrivelled, and the beautiful red “bark” has peeled off. I’m going to leave the stems in the ground though – ever the optimist that next spring they might throw new buds – or just rot away and save me digging them out.
    Next time, I think I will put my next Dragon Trees in very large pots :)

    Narelle – I really hope you can dry yours out – I was really hanging out for mine to flower and branch and it would have been all the worse to lose them after that had happened. Perhaps you could trial cutting just some of the heads off (maybe they’ll bud if they’re still able to photosynthesise) and keeping an eye on the rest to make sure the rot is not progressing?

    All the best,
    Barb

  • antony said:

    i have a 1.8mt tall dragon tree i want to dig out and relocate. what is the best way to dig out and move so as to get the best success? best way to avoid root damage?

  • Not Kim Gordon (author) said:

    Hi Antony
    Check out http://www.doyadigit.com/2009/12/transplanting-a-dracaena-draco-dragon-tree/
    Once established Draco’s are hardy and should survive transplanting.
    1. First make sure the plant is as healthy as possible. A good soaking with a seaweed solution prior to transplant is a great idea.
    2. If you have time dig half way around the plant and undercut part way, say around 1/3 to a 1/2). Cover the root ball with hessian or similar, an old potato sack would work well and leave for a few days or a week if you can. To be safe put some bricks or similar under the undercut section to support. This gets the plant used to the idea of moving and that half of the roots healed and ready for the move.
    3. Dig out the other side and undercut. Cover with hessian.
    4. Hopefully you’ve done it so you can get a hand trolley under the first side
    5. Prepare the spot where you will be moving the plant to. The new hole should be wider than your root ball.
    6. Move plant. Ensure it is planted at same or higher level than it was. Do not plant it lower. Stake up plant for support.
    7. Give a good feed of seaweed solution once a week for two weeks, starting right away. then a feed once a month or a few months.

    If you don’t have time to do one side first then don’t stress too much as they are hardy and should survive. In any case make sure you leave as big a root ball as possible. The limit is really how much you can move.

  • Cindy said:

    I have two small dracos in pots. Have had them for over three years without a problem until approx 6 mths or so ago. They both have red/brown spots all over the leaves the same colour as the beginning of the leaf at the stem. They haven’t had a lot of water and the trunks look ok. We have had huge amounts of rain in Brisbane but these are under the eaves. They do get the harsh western sun. They sort of look like scald marks but the rest of the leaf is green and healthy Someone told me to take all the leaves off as it may be a fungus. I’d send a photo but not sure how to attach it here?.. Another nursery said to cut it off at the trunk. This seems a bit harsh and I’m not sure how far down to take it. Any advice would be really appreciated. I noticed that someone else in Brisbane had spots on her lower yellowing leaves. Mine aren’t going yellow and the spots appear on the centre top leaves as well. Tks again.

  • Not Kim Gordon (author) said:

    Hi Cindy
    I am not a horticulturist so please take this as general comments only. If I thought it may be fungus I would apply a fungicide, it won’t hurt the plant if it’s not a fungus.
    I would repot the plants. Three years in the same pot is 1-2 years too long. If re-potting too hard them apply a low nitrogen pellet style fertilizer and also give them a feed with seaweed liquid fertilizer. It is natural for the lower leaves to yellow off prior to browning and falling off.
    Cutting off the head seems too extreme to me.

    Anyone else have any suggestions?

  • Cindy said:

    Thanks so much for that. I will try repotting and fertilising them. I think if taking the leaves off doesn’t work I will then try a fungicide. If anyone else has had this problem I would be interested to hear from them.
    Cheers

  • Barry said:

    Hi

    Hoping you could provide me with some information as to how I could best take cuttings from 2 very healthy plants, to transplant into pots until they mature. The current trees as said are quite healty with 4 & 5 branches respectively. They both have plenty of orange/reddish seeds on. Unfortunate thing is they are located in part of garden that need to shift from. The trees are approx 2.5-3 mt tall. So guess what saying would like to take 2-3 cuttings plus shift remainder of trees any advice will be greatly appreciated.

  • Not Kim Gordon (author) said:

    Hi Barry
    Early spring would be a better time to take cuttings and move a Draco. At that time:
    – Take cutting using a very clean saw. I’m not positive on how to best root the cuttings as I grow my Draco’s from seed. There are two choices which could work. Let the cuttings dry off first and heal over, this would take a week or two. Then dip in rooting hormone and plant in sandy well draining soil. The other way is to skip the healing stage.
    – For the tree. Dig around half of it about a month before you want to move it. That get the plant ready to move and lets those half of the roots heal. When time to move dig around after half and move straight into new spot. It will be very very heavy.
    – Make sure you stake it up with at least two supports.

  • Barry said:

    Thanks for advice will go ahead and take cuttings in spring months. Next question is there a special process that needs to be followed to germinate and get growing from Seed?

    Cheers

    Barry

  • Not Kim Gordon (author) said:

    Hi Barry
    Please do let us know how your cutting goes, there will be a lot of interested people.
    As to the seeds. There is no special process required. Mine all germinated with a high strike rate. Some feel behind some other plants and they germinated with no care, others germinated in seed raising mix. If anything the best results seemed to come from not planting too deeply. Ones left on the top seemed more likely to germinate than ones planted deeply. A light covering seemed to work best.
    Good luck.

    Cheers
    Dean

  • Lana said:

    Hi

    We have a draco that is approx 6 metres and is flowering currently. A couple of months ago (during Winter when it was wet) it started leaning over so we put a rope round it and straightened it up. Should we leave it supported by the rope? Do they grow new roots and no longer need the extra support? Look forward to your advise/comments.

  • Not Kim Gordon (author) said:

    Hi Lana
    I’m not sure what to do as I never seen such a mature plant lean over. Unless it was only recently (within a year or so) planted there.
    I’d leave the rope there for a few more months so it can shoot some more roots.
    Is it root ball somehow constrained?
    Make sure you collect the seeds when they eventually fall off in a year or so. New plants are easy to grow from seed.
    Good luck – Dean

  • Cintia Flores said:

    I did not know that this tree flourished.
    Very beautiful. I wish I had a Dragon’s Blood Tree in my house.

    Cheers,

    Cintia Flores.

  • Sandra said:

    Hi

    I have two mature Dragon Trees which are in very good condition – one has even started branching. My problem is however, the the trunk at the base appears to be thinning (not sure if its due to my husband whipper snipping close to the trunk to cut away the grass). I just hope we havent planted too deep as the roots are not exposed. They have been in the same position for three years now and appear healthy and vibrant.

    Can you please advise as I dont wish to lose them as they cost me a fortune.

    Sandra

  • Not Kim Gordon (author) said:

    Hi Sandra
    If they’ve been there 3 years and are looking healthy then I don’t think the problem is planting.

    You husband needs to stay well clear of the plants. I dig out the grass that is close and replace it with a gravel or pebble mix to ensure he doesn’t need to get close.

    Dracos will send new roots out of the base for further support and nourishment. After three years it should be doing this.

  • Sandra said:

    Hi Dean

    Thanks for your response above. I noticed that one tree has sent out a new root but the end broke off when I touched it – it just has a small bump about 15mm left now – have I damaged the root?

    Sandra

  • Sarah said:

    Hi, our dragon tree is one by one losing stems from what looks like stem rot. The centre of the stems are becoming wet and the leaves fall out. The stem then starts rotting and when cut smells like rotten fruit. The leaves on the whole tree seem to have small spots that gro with a red-orange centre surrounded by black and then yellow. The trunk is fine. Could it be a fungus and if so what shoudl I treat it with? It is a beautiful tree and I don’t want to lose it. I can email photos if you email me at exec@npcaa.com.au, would really appreciate advice as no-one I have spoken to seems to know what to do. Half if the tree is fine (except for the spots) but one by one the stems are becoming infected with this rot.

  • Sarah G said:

    Hi, my beautiful Draco has been growing well in Fremantle, WA for a while now, but recently it’s new leaves have been less vibrant, and weaker than the older leaves. Last night the outer few leaves that stand up in the centre have suddenly fallen over very limply, in the space of about 5 hours! The new leaves are paler than the old ones and are yellowing towards the trunk. The base of my Draco has strong thick roots, is firm, and I am positive it has not begun to rot, so I have no idea about what has happened to him. Please if anyone could give me a hint as to what I have done wrong I would truly appreciate the help, he is my pride and joy and I am very concerned that something is wrong.

  • Not Kim Gordon (author) said:

    Hi Sarah
    That has happened to a few of my Draco’s, but only during winter when they have been too wet and no getting any direct sunlight. The other possible cause is cockroaches or similar living in it. To check for them, pour a bucket of water quickly on the top of the plant so it floods and any insects will come to the top.

    To fix my plants I pulled out all the centre leaves backs to where they were no longer easy to pull out and there seemed to be a firm trunk. I then sprayed with anti-rot and waited and waited, fingers crossed. All, but one of the plants, have now sprouted many branches, which is great as I love the look of Draco’s that branch early.

    Good luck.

  • MickR said:

    Hi I hope you can help.
    I was forced to relocate my Dragon Tree into a pot an during the process the middle portion of the top broke off.
    The plant has been in the pot for about 4 months now and looks OK (leaves are good colour, etc.), but there is no new growth.
    Will it survive?
    Is there anything I should do to assist it’s recovery?
    I live at Glenelg North in South Australia and the pot is under a pergola, which is quite light, but no direct sun.
    Cheers
    Mick

  • Not Kim Gordon (author) said:

    Hi Mick,
    By the sound of it your Draco should survive. It should sprout new branches from the top, starting any week now – definitely should have new growth by end of year. You could feed it fortnightly with Seasol or similar, to give it a boost.

    Good luck – NKD

  • Nudge said:

    Hi there
    My brother has a large Draco in his backyard that unfortunately needs to be cut down (the previous owner planted it too close to the fence and now it’s lifting the fence and pavers and constantly dropping stuff on the neighbours aviary).
    I want to take several cuttings from the plant and replant them into pots and eventually plant in the front yard of my house as a feature tree, but wondering if it’s going to be too hot coming into summer ? He’s in some hurry to cut it down as it’s now becoming a bit of a neighbourly dispute. Besides a good potting mix and Seasol, can you suggest anything else I could use to encourage strong growth/survival ?

    Cheers mate, love your website.
    Nudge

  • Not Kim Gordon (author) said:

    Hi Nudge,
    Make sure you let the cut totally heal over before potting. AT least a week, probably two this time of year (late spring).
    Hardly any water, as without roots water will rot the cutting. Give it a light water once a week at most, making sure it is totally dried between waterings.
    Keep in a sheltered dry place out of direct sunlight, but with plenty of light. A plastic covering to give the leaves moist is a good idea as is using a spray bottle to water.
    Maybe use a rooting powder – not positive about that as I never have.
    Remove all old leaves.
    Trim the remaining leaves back leaves back, cut off at least half each leaf.

    Doing this now should be fine. It will give it a good chance to root before autumn – earlier spring would have been better, but hey now is fine.
    Come autumn spray plants with anti-fungal as Draco’s do have a tendency to root out, especially during rainy winter and/or oif plant gets no sun over winter.

    Hope that help. Good luck and please do let me know how you go or even send some photos I can post for all to see.

  • Nudge said:

    Thank you Not Kim Gordon ;)

    You’ve been a massive help. I’ll be sure to upload some photos. Fingers crossed it survives as it would be a shame to kill such a lovely looking plant…

    All the best

    Nudge.

  • Nina said:

    Hi there,

    I live in Perth, WA and have a Dragon Tree, estimated by the landscaper to be around 50 years old. Symmetrically it’s perfect with 10 even heads. I haven’t seen it flower yet (owned it now for about 2 years), but I’m wondering when it does if there is a way to stop it from forming new branches? I love the way it looks right now and want to nurture it into staying the same but remaining healthy and luscious.

    Thanks

  • Not Kim Gordon (author) said:

    Hi Nina, lucky you, your Draco sounds like a wonderful specimen.
    I don’t know any way to stop a Draco from branching and am not sure why you’d want to. For me, the more a Draco has branched the more beautiful it is. Over time the symmetry will return as each branch flowers and branches.
    But I know we all appreciate different things so you could try cutting the flower spike out early.

  • Tania said:

    Hi there
    I hope you can help me I have a Dragon tree which was growing really well
    unfortunately it has caused major damage to a drain and a concrete path
    due to the fact it was planted up against the house. It was cut a the base as the
    roots had grown under the house through the drain and under the path.
    Is there any chance of saving it ?
    The free is 2metres and it has just started to flower.

    Thanks, love your website
    Tania

  • Not Kim Gordon (author) said:

    Sorry for the late reply. Hopefully you let the cut dry and heal over. If you plant it again in a sandy mixture it might sprout new roots and grow.

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